Over the past few seasons, an undeniable shift has taken place in the fashion world. Among the sartorial elite, murmurs of relief have emerged as the catwalks proudly display what many are calling the return of "real clothes." Fashion is cyclical; everything comes back around.
In recent years, we've witnessed a parade of loud and bold styles, thanks in part to social media and a world transformed by the pandemic. Think of the flamboyance of Alessandro Michele's Gucci or the nostalgic revival of the 2000s, embodied by brands like Diesel, which epitomize that era. With virality as the benchmark for success, maximalism dominated, giving way to micro-trends like cottagecore, barbiecore, or the unique aesthetic of the "coastal grandmother."
However, the pendulum is swinging back the other way. The appeal of understated luxury is making a comeback. The current fashion narrative is adopting a “less is more” philosophy, heralding a new chapter where subtlety and sophistication are at the forefront. This shift is prompting a rediscovery of normcore, a trend that defined the 2010s and seems to be resurfacing in the cultural conversation.
The term "normcore," coined by New York-based foresight group K-HOLE in their 2013 report Youth Mode: A Report on Freedom , goes beyond mere fashion and touches on a deeper sociological sentiment. Originally a humorous concept, it eventually catalyzed a full-fledged movement.
With the rise of social media and its attendant “hipster” tendencies—think indie sleaze, soft grunge, saturated filters, and street style photography—the 2010s were defined by the insatiable desire to appear unique. Platforms like Tumblr and Instagram amplified this quest for individuality, with bloggers like Tavi Gevinson, as well as celebrities like Cara Delevingne and Zooey Deschanel, cultivating distinct and original aesthetics that were often replicated by others.
Normcore emerged as a counter-intuitive response, suggesting that it was not only acceptable, but actually cool , to be ordinary. The essence of this trend was to challenge alternative subcultures like "mass indie."
As K-HOLE explained, “When the margins become increasingly crowded, mass indie looks toward the center. Having mastered difference, the truly cool seek to master sameness.” True modernity lies not in the desire to look cool, but in a genuine indifference to such labels. In short, normcore was the response to the era of mass indie and its rejection of anything that could be considered “mainstream.”
It was an invitation to find comfort in similarity. K-HOLE's ethos was clear: in a world obsessed with standing out, there is a unique power in blending in.
What does normcore look like?
Normcore is about embracing the ordinary and appearing... "normal," but in a stylish and confident way. The iconic figures of this movement aren't found on the runways: they're 1990s sitcom icons like Jerry Seinfeld and Larry David, with their average man wardrobes, or actresses of the era like Meg Ryan and Calista Flockhart. On the tech side, figures like Steve Jobs and Mark Zuckerberg have turned their simple, straightforward style into a true signature.
It's about consciously choosing "anti-fashion": the familiar comfort of a faded pair of jeans, the rugged reliability of chunky dad sneakers, and the comforting warmth of a fleece jacket. Steve Jobs' iconic black turtleneck perfectly embodies this spirit, as does Jerry Seinfeld's classic ensemble of a baseball cap and comfortable, well-fitting jeans.
Normcore Today
Normcore hasn't fully resurfaced, but echoes of it can be heard. Fast forward to today, and we're seeing a return of "real clothes" to the runways, recalling a similar sentiment to the one that gave rise to the trend. However, the current iteration of this movement, dubbed quiet luxury, is a marked departure from normcore.
While both advocate simplicity, quiet luxury retains a subtle touch of opulence absent from normcore. It exudes that “if you know, you know” vibe, accessible only to an elite few, whereas normcore, as the report explained, “seeks the freedom that non-exclusivity offers. It finds empowerment in having nothing special and understands that adaptability leads to belonging. Normcore is a path to a more peaceful life.”
Both trends, however, act as antidotes to the din of overly flashy fashions.